Yesterday we shared photos of our new board and batten hallway from the Pinterest Challenge, and today we’re posting the full step‑by‑step tutorial. It’s thorough—about 2,000 words—but don’t let the length scare you: this is one of the most cost‑effective, straightforward upgrades we’ve done in a long time. With $57 in materials and a few short sessions spread across several days, we transformed a bland hallway into a polished, classic space.

We’d been planning to add molding to our hallway for a while and now wish we hadn’t waited. The project used mostly materials we already had, required minimal tools, and can easily be tackled on weeknights and weekends. Each step is manageable in an evening, so you can spread the work across several days while waiting for paint and caulk to dry.

Planning Our Board & Batten

We pulled ideas from several popular tutorials and adapted techniques to fit our house. There are many valid ways to approach board and batten depending on your walls, trim, and personal taste. A few choices we made up front:

• No separate “board” panels: Our drywall is smooth, so we used it as the background for the battens. Once painted, it looks continuous and polished.
• Kept existing baseboards: We chose battens that sat flush with our baseboards instead of replacing them. That saved time and money and prevented trim from protruding into the hallway.

If you prefer a different look or have textured walls, you can adapt these steps—there are many good variations depending on your space. We also recorded video of both the construction and finishing steps for those who prefer visual instruction. If you can’t watch right away, the written breakdown below covers everything in detail.

We removed embedded video code from this version; the original project included two short how‑to videos covering installation and finishing tips.

Measuring & Shopping For Materials

Start by measuring the wall area and sketching a plan. A simple graph‑paper sketch helps calculate material needs for the top rail, any ledge, and the vertical battens. We cut some lumber at the store to make transport easier and to reduce work at home.

We only purchased a few items for this project because most supplies—paint, caulk, spackle—were on hand. The main purchases were lattice strips, pine for the rails, and a nail gun. If you don’t want to buy a nail gun, many stores rent them, and some people prefer to use finish nails and a hammer or to have boards pre‑cut.

Tools & Supplies Needed

Full list of what we used:

• Pneumatic or airless brad nail gun (or finish nails and hammer)
• Pre‑primed lattice strips (or 1x2s for thicker battens)
• 1×3 pine boards for the top rail
• 1×2 pine boards for an optional ledge
• Measuring tape and a scrap board for consistent spacing
• Laser level or level
• Stud finder
• Miter saw or have boards cut at the store
• Spackle, joint compound, or wood filler
• Paintable white caulk and a caulk gun
• Sandpaper or a palm sander
• Primer and a durable white paint (satin finish recommended)
• Paint brushes, foam roller, and painting supplies

*Acclimate your wood indoors for about a week to minimize expansion and contraction after installation.

Installing The Top Rail

We installed 1×3 pine boards for the top rail first. Cut each piece to fit snugly along each wall run and dry‑fit them before attaching. If you prefer, many stores will cut boards to length for you.

Decide the height before nailing. We originally tried a very high rail but noticed it made our eight‑foot ceilings feel shorter, so we settled on a traditional 40″ from the floor. Use a laser or hand level to mark a 40″ line at several points along the wall to guide placement.

Mark stud locations along the intended rail line so fasteners go into solid framing. We used a nail gun to attach the top rails to studs, which made the job fast and secure. If you’re concerned about future removal, skip glue and rely on nails so the drywall won’t be damaged when the trim comes off.

Adding The Vertical Battens

For the vertical battens we used pre‑primed lattice strips because they’re thin, affordable, and sit flush with our existing baseboard. Thicker 1x2s or 1x3s give a chunkier look but will protrude more from the wall.

We spaced our battens on 16″ centers to align with studs for extra holding power. To keep spacing consistent, make a spacer from scrap 1×3 and use it repeatedly as you measure and position each strip. Light double‑stick tape can temporarily hold each batten while you level it and nail it in place.

When all battens were installed, we evaluated a top ledge option. We tried a 1×2 ledge but decided it narrowed the hallway visually and created awkward corners, so we removed it. Personal preference and traffic patterns should guide whether you add a ledge.

Prepare For Painting

Once the trim is installed, fill nail holes and any gaps with spackle or joint compound. We used spackle because it’s easy to work with and sands smoothly. After spackling, apply paintable white caulk to gaps where boards meet the wall for a seamless look. Focus caulk where it’s needed rather than on every seam.

After caulk dried, sand any excess filler with a palm sander or sandpaper to create a uniform surface for priming.

Prime & Paint

Apply one coat of a quality primer to all wooden pieces to prevent tannin bleed‑through and ensure paint adhesion. Even pre‑primed lattice benefits from a fresh coat of primer. Once dry, apply a durable satin white paint—Benjamin Moore Advance or a similar trim paint is a good choice for high‑traffic areas.

After the trim paint cured, paint the wall area above the battens. If you’re worried about peeling the trim paint, cut in carefully by hand rather than using tape. Then roll the wall with one or two coats as needed. We used a soft, neutral wall color that ties into the adjacent spaces for a cohesive look.

Results & Total Project Cost

The finished hallway feels updated and intentional. Small changes like consistent trim height and clean lines make a big visual impact. Here’s what we spent:

• Four 12′ pieces of lattice – $32
• Two 8′ pieces and two 6′ pieces of 1×3 pine – $25

If you already own paint, caulk, sandpaper, and a nailer, the total materials cost was about $57. Timewise, we spread the work across five days to allow for drying and curing, but a focused DIYer could complete the project in a long weekend if materials and tools are ready.

We loved the result and wish we had done it sooner. The board and batten adds architectural interest and makes the whole hallway feel pulled together. Now we’re deciding what artwork and frames to hang above the trim to complete the look.