I’m back with the final chapter before the big reveal next week. I know the suspense may feel long, but this timeline reflects how the project actually unfolded. This isn’t a packaged TV makeover where everything is finished in a tidy half hour. Instead, you’re getting the real, step-by-step account. Fortunately for you, it’s a little less dusty than what we’ve been living through. While you’ve been enjoying daily showers at home, we’ve been showering at the gym for about a month. This morning we finally took our first shower in the newly finished bathroom — and it was glorious. So hang on a bit longer while I walk you through last weekend’s main task: building the vanity.

As we explained in the first bathroom post, we decided to craft a DIY vanity by converting a piece of furniture. We loved the look of higher-end vanities at Pottery Barn and Restoration Hardware, but we weren’t willing to spend $1,500 on a single piece. After some online searching and a day of thrift- and home-decor-store hunting, we found an affordable rectangular ceramic vessel sink and a sleek chrome faucet to pair with a simple nightstand. The result felt modern yet classic and cost us well under $400 — a major saving compared to pre-built cabinet-style vanities that often run around $500 before you add a sink or faucet.

Assembly of the nightstand was straightforward; it arrived in a flat box with some assembly required and was so easy that someone pregnant could put it together while I tiled (and, in fact, did). Because a nightstand’s finish isn’t suited to a wet bathroom, we protected it with three coats of protective lacquer. We chose an eco-friendly Acrylaq product after researching alternatives to traditional oil-based polyurethane. It’s low-VOC and applied smoothly. For extra ventilation, Sherry applied all three coats on the porch, lightly sanding between coats. So far the finish repels water nicely — droplets bead up on the surface — and it gives me confidence that the vanity will withstand bathroom conditions.

The trickiest part was cutting precise openings for the faucet, sink drain, and the wall plumbing so everything would sit flush and stable. When we positioned the table against the wall, the p-trap lined up perfectly beneath the drawer and upper shelf, so both lower shelves remained intact — a small miracle that saved a lot of effort. The hot-and-cold supply pipes, however, extended into the drawer area, so I marked and removed only the necessary wood panels to make room. I started with a pilot hole and finished cuts by hand using a saw to keep control while working on thin panels.

Next came creating the holes in the tabletop for the drain and faucet. To ensure the sink drain would align directly over the p-trap, we used a trimmed paper towel tube as a guide and marked the underside of the top with a marker. After drilling a small pilot hole, I used a hole-boring bit based on the sink’s specifications — a cheap bit that made a clean, accurate hole. With the sink temporarily set in place we tested the drain stopper and determined the ideal faucet location, then drilled the faucet hole.

We installed the faucet before moving the vanity into the bathroom so I could tighten the mounting hardware from the back without the wall in the way. After attaching the faucet hoses and feeding them through the top, I realized a small section of underside wood needed to be removed so the mounting nut could sit flush. A few careful cuts later and the faucet was secure. With everything tightened, we carried the vanity inside and connected the water hoses to the in-wall plumbing, using plumber’s tape and a wrench. The rule: tight, not overtight. I did a quick paper towel leak check — hold a dry towel under the connections for a minute and look for damp spots — and after a minor adjustment everything was dry.

We then glued the above-counter vessel sink in place with clear waterproof silicone caulk, which both adhered and sealed the sink. We applied caulk only where the sink bottom contacted the tabletop and intentionally left a small gap at the back of the caulk line so any future leak would seep out where we could see it rather than collect unseen between the sink and the top. Once the sink and drain were fully assembled and tightened from beneath, we ran water again and, after a few small tweaks, had a leak-free installation. Big sigh of relief and a few celebratory jumps.

Two final tasks completed the job: securing the vanity to the wall and modifying the drawer to accommodate the plumbing. We used small L-brackets and long screws hidden beneath the drawer base to anchor the vanity so it can’t pull away if the pipes are the only thing holding it up. For the drawer, we disassembled the back and shortened the bottom panel to create clearance for the pipes, then reattached the back at the new depth. The thin wood made the cut easy, and a circular saw with a guide ensured a straight line for a snug fit.

With the drawer reassembled and the sink ready for use, the vanity build was officially done — completed in just a few hours and saving us several hundred dollars. Up next: the full bathroom reveal, a detailed budget breakdown, and whether we’d do the same project all over again. We’ll also share follow-ups like reglazing the tub and creating new artwork. One step we won’t be retelling here is the toilet reinstallation, which has its own step-by-step guide already available elsewhere.

Have you ever repurposed a piece of furniture to make it more functional for your home? Sherry’s mom converted an old cabinet into a sink years ago, and that’s one of the inspirations behind our project. We’d love to hear about the furniture hacks you’re working on — tell us about them.