All aboard! Can I get a choo choo?

As promised in our Instagram and Facebook sneak peek, here’s the story of how we built a train board for Clara. Why a train board? Clara is completely obsessed with the one at Barnes & Noble — a large track fixed to a pedestal board that draws kids from all corners of the bookstore. If we pull into the parking lot near those stores, Clara shouts before we even turn off the car, “We’re getting to play with the trains!”

When John suggested making our own version using a train set she received for her second birthday, I remembered a DIY train board I’d seen online and spent some time gathering ideas. We had a few clear goals:

• Use all of the Melissa & Doug train pieces we already had to create a large, continuous track.
• Build the board from solid wood to avoid off-gassing associated with MDF or some plywood — we chose whitewood because it’s lightweight and affordable.
• Paint a playful background on the surface to inspire imaginative scenarios (for example: the train travels to the beach, through the forest, or across the ocean).
• Work with low-VOC paint and sealer and attach the tracks with screws from beneath the board rather than using strong-smelling glue, keeping the build as eco-friendly as possible.

Here’s how we did it for about $28. First, John bought a 12-foot-long whitewood board and had the store cut it into three equal pieces, each approximately 10″ x 1″ x 47″. He joined the planks using his Kreg Jig; you can also connect pieces with flat braces or metal strips on the back and add felt pads to prevent floor scratches. After assembly, he sanded everything smooth so the board wouldn’t feel rough or splintery. The seam lines are barely visible once joined and sanded properly.

Next we arranged the train tracks in many different configurations until we settled on one that included hills, an elevated section, a bridge, a tunnel, and even a spot where a train can run off the board — a feature we predicted Clara would love.

We sketched a simple layout on paper: light green for grass, blue for ocean, a sandy stripe for the beach, and darker green for the forest. I lightly penciled those delineations onto the board so I’d have clear painting guides.

For paint, we chose low-VOC sample pots from the home improvement store in shades that matched our plan: a leafy green for grass, a blue for water, and a darker green for trees. I didn’t prime the wood because we liked the natural look of painted wood with a few knots showing through for character. If you prefer a perfectly uniform finish, a stain-blocking primer before painting will help hide the knots.

I started by painting the ocean section, then added the grass. Since those two areas didn’t meet, there was no concern about smearing wet paint. After letting those areas dry, I painted the forest area next — the brushwork on the trees was the most fun since it has a bushing texture. Finally, I painted the sand using leftover white, giving the board a bright, beach-like stripe between ocean and grass.

Once the design was fully dry, I sealed the board with several thin, even coats of a low-VOC clear sealer. I used an eco-friendly acrylic poly that we’ve trusted for years. The key with poly is to brush quickly and evenly, avoid overworking the surface, and allow full drying time between coats to prevent gummy areas.

We decided to attach the tracks semi-permanently for a few reasons:

• At Clara’s age, assembling the track herself often led to frustration and tears, which made playtime less enjoyable.
• We noticed she had more independent, creative play at the fixed display in the bookstore — using tunnels, staging crashes, and organizing stops and destinations without the stress of loose pieces.
• If she later wants to build her own track, we can simply remove the small screws from the underside to detach the pieces and free up the board for new configurations.

After giving the sealer a full 48 hours to cure, we re-laid the track on the sealed surface and attached it using screws driven from the underside of the board. John removed each track piece, drilled a pilot hole from the top through to the bottom, then held the track in place and screwed upward from below so the hardware is hidden. He counter-sank the screws so they sit flush on the back and won’t scratch the floor. We also added felt pads to protect surfaces where the board might be placed.

For the elevated sections, we attached wooden blocks the same way: pilot holes from above and screws driven from the underside into the blocks to hide all fasteners. To secure the track to those blocks, we used small finish nails through the groove of the track into the block. The result is sturdy and unobtrusive — you really have to look closely to notice the fasteners.

To create the illusion of a track running off the corner of the board, John traced the board’s shape onto the bottom of that track piece, cut it to match, sanded it smooth, and then reattached it from below like the others. After assembly we tested the structure upside down and were happy to find everything very solid. Clara has even kicked at the elevated section a few times without loosening anything.

Choo-choo! Watching Clara play is the best part. She chatters about people going to the beach, the forest, and over hills. Surprisingly, her favorite activity is rolling trains down the center hill into a big pile-up, and sometimes she invites us to join the chugga-chugga fun.

We love that the board is flat and slides completely under the sofa for storage when it’s not in use. That compact storage makes it feel special when we bring it out, and it’s one of the reasons a board suited us better than a table — we were able to use all the tracks and trains we already owned, without needing extra storage pieces. It tucks away quickly and becomes a treat to reintroduce during playtime.

So that’s the full $28 train board rundown. Clara adores it, and it has added a new level of imaginative play to our home. What have you been building, painting, or sanding lately? Any fun kids’ projects in the works?