We recently tackled our biggest nursery furniture project yet: refinishing a six-drawer dresser to add storage and double as a changing station. This post explains, step-by-step, how to refinish and stain a wooden or veneered dresser and how to paint a wood or veneer surface for a two-toned finish.

We found a dresser that was solidly built with mid-century lines, perfect for the nursery aesthetic. The plan was to stain the base a deep brown and paint the top a glossy white to match the crib and the rest of the nursery. The piece turned out to be veneered, but fortunately the veneer was thick enough to sand and restain.

How to find the right dresser: measure the wall and know the depth needed for your changing pad. We aimed for something less than sixty inches in length, raised on legs to feel lighter in the room, and deep enough for a standard 17″ changing pad. Budget-wise, we hoped for an older, solidly made piece under $150. After searching classified listings, we found a 54″ long dresser on little legs with clean lines—a perfect match.

Before committing, check the veneer thickness. Open a drawer or look at the back of the piece: paper-thin veneer won’t sand well, but veneer thicker than a dime can usually be refinished successfully. Our dresser had quarter-inch veneer, which allowed for sanding and restaining without cutting through to plywood.

Step 1 — Clean: Wipe down the entire piece with a moist rag inside and out to remove dust, spiderwebs, and any loose objects in drawers. This reset makes sanding and finishing cleaner and safer.

Step 2 — Sanding: Use a power sander with 80-grit paper to remove the old finish and any damaged areas, then follow up with 200-grit for a smooth surface. Always sand with the grain of the wood to avoid circular marks that show when stained. Use hand sanding for tight spots, drawer fronts, and built-in pulls that the electric sander can’t reach.

Step 3 — Dust removal: After sanding, wipe everything again with a damp rag to remove sanding dust. Allow the surfaces to dry completely before applying stain.

Step 4 — Staining: Choose a stain color that complements your room. We used a liquid oil stain in a deep red-mahogany tone and applied it with a 2″ synthetic angled brush in thin, even coats following the grain. If the wood doesn’t absorb stain, you likely need more sanding to remove the old finish. Let the first coat sit for about 20 minutes to penetrate deeply, then gently wipe away excess with a clean, dry rag, moving with the grain. For a richer or more uniform color, repeat the staining process and allow the stain to penetrate before wiping.

Step 5 — Priming the painted area: For the portion you plan to paint, apply one thin coat of oil-based primer with a small foam roller. Oil-based primer provides reliable adhesion and prevents bleed-through for stubborn stains, though it is more odorous than water-based options. Protect your freshly stained areas by using a steady hand or a cardboard shield while priming.

Step 6 — Painting: After the primer dries, apply thin, even coats of semi-gloss latex paint with a foam roller. We recommend three thin coats rather than one thick coat to avoid drips, bubbles, and brush marks. Latex paint bonds well over oil-based primer and gives a durable, wipeable surface for a nursery.

Step 7 — Topcoat for protection: Once stain and paint have cured for a day or two, seal everything with a clear protective topcoat. A water-based acrylic poly or a low-VOC, non-toxic polyacrylic works well to give a glossy, washable finish without heavy fumes. Apply two thin coats with a brush, brushing with the grain and gently smoothing out any bubbles. Allow full drying time between coats to avoid tackiness.

Final curing: Allow the completed piece to cure for several days in a well-ventilated space before bringing it into the nursery. This ensures the finish hardens fully and any remaining odors dissipate.

Result: A durable, two-toned dresser with a deep stained base and a glossy white top. The finish is wipeable and robust enough to handle daily nursery use. Removing hardware is optional; built-in pulls can offer a clean, hardware-free look that fits mid-century and modern styles.

Budget-friendly tips: source a solid vintage piece, check veneer thickness before buying, reuse tools you already own when possible, and choose low-VOC finishing products for furniture that will live in a nursery. Small investments in primer, stain, a brush, and a few rags can transform an inexpensive dresser into a durable, stylish storage solution.

If you plan your measurements, confirm veneer thickness, and follow the sanding, staining, priming, painting, and sealing steps carefully, you can achieve professional-looking results on both solid wood and sandable veneer furniture.