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Let’s talk grout. With our penny rounds finally all installed, grouting was the obvious next step. That finishing touch is one of those transforms-it-from-in-progress-to-complete moments, and the difference is striking.
Here’s how we approached it, starting with a quick materials lineup:
- Bucket of clean water
- Putty knife and a second bucket for mixing grout
- Paper towels — grout can be messy
- Sanded grout (we used a light Mobe Pearl tone)
- Rubber float
- Flexible grout admixture to reduce shrinkage and cracking
- Sponge for cleanup
We also used leftover rosin paper to protect counters and keep the space tidy while we worked.
Grout, like thinset, should be mixed in small batches because it starts to set within 20–30 minutes. I followed the manufacturer notes and added the admixture to the bucket first, then gradually mixed in the grout powder until it reached a smooth, toothpaste-like consistency.
I mixed with a putty knife, which gave me control over the texture. Once the mix was ready, grouting itself felt almost meditative after the concentration needed to install all the tiles. The basic motion is straightforward: use the rubber float to press grout into the gaps, making sure each joint is completely filled.
After filling the joints, hold the float at an angle and scrape diagonally across the tiles to remove excess grout from the surface. Then use a damp sponge to gently clean the tile faces and smooth the grout lines. That sponge-and-water step is simple but essential — it removes grout residue and refines the finished look.
We filmed a short one-take clip of the process to capture the technique in action; it’s a helpful reference if you want to see the motions up close.
Grouting can be a bit tedious and it does take a toll on your wrist, but we managed to finish the whole job in one afternoon.
The visual change between ungrouted and grouted tile still amazes us. Grout lightens as it dries, so the tone shifts a bit from wet to dry. There’s usually a thin haze after grouting that buffs off once the grout is fully set, revealing the true sheen of the tiles.
We also filled corner seams with caulk matched to the grout color and caulked where the tile meets the counter. Those seams help the finished installation look neat and provide a flexible, waterproof transition between surfaces. In photos taken right after caulking, the seam can look darker while it dries, but it blends in nicely once cured and buffed.
Seeing the whole room finished is satisfying, even though photos can’t fully convey the impact. From a distance the tile can read as a subtle field of tone, but up close each penny tile is distinct — which was exactly what we wanted after spending many hours installing them.
Close-ups show the natural variation in the tiles: some are darker, some have faint rings or tonal shifts. That randomness adds depth and a marble-like appearance without the cost of marble. The grout helps tie all those small differences together for a cohesive look.
We were initially worried the grout might highlight any uneven seams, but because our grout and tile colors are low-contrast, it actually minimized small imperfections. Low-contrast grout can disguise minor inconsistencies more effectively than a high-contrast choice. Of course, a good tile installation is still important — grout won’t fix major mistakes — but the right color and a quality finish go a long way.
We still have a few tasks left: sealing the grout, additional buffing to remove any haze, and finishing touches like lighting, a range hood, and open shelves. The Tile Shop and other suppliers sell haze remover if needed, but often a dry towel and some elbow grease do the trick. Once sealed, the grout should be easier to keep clean and maintain.
Overall, despite the wrist work and a bit of tedium, grouting was worth it. The room looks complete and much more polished, and we’re excited to move on to the next steps.
Psst — our kid’s enthusiasm for the little indoor train was an unexpected highlight during the project. Cute distraction, helpful break.
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