With our fireplace refacing plan all set and supplies ready, we dove into step one: tile. This article walks through the full process, from prepping the surface and setting tile to grouting and sealing, with practical tips from our experience.

To clarify our plan: we tiled a 7-inch border around the firebox. The remaining brick will be framed with wood and MDF that will overlap the tile, so it made sense to install tile first. Before you start, check local code for clearance requirements between the firebox and any combustible surround; our code required at least 6 inches of tile before the wood surround could begin.

We chose a marble subway tile priced around $5 per square foot. Marble gives a classic look without the high cost of larger slabs, and a subway format allowed us to combine patterns for visual interest.

Preparation began by creating a flat, stable surface to adhere tile to. We attached 1/4-inch cement board over the existing brick using masonry screws. The score-and-snap method made cutting manageable, and a masonry drill bit worked well for the screws. This step creates a solid substrate and helps the thinset bond properly. The demo and attachment process is dusty and easier with two people—one holding pieces while the other fastens them.

We removed the old wood mantel top and cleared everything from the mantel before drilling. Small items can easily fall and break during demo or drilling, so clear the area and protect the floor. For the hearth, we adhered cement board over the existing surface using heavy-duty construction adhesive and clamped the boards in place overnight with heavy objects, adding screws later for reinforcement. Because we had layered flooring in this room, adding cement board without fully demoing the hearth preserved alignment and prevented an awkward raised edge.

Before setting any tile, protect the surrounding floor—especially softer surfaces like cork—by taping down rosin paper or similar floor protection. We also laid out all the tile beforehand. Buying a few extra boxes helps account for cuts, chips, and overage. Sorting tiles by veining and color allowed us to distribute darker and lighter pieces for a balanced look and reserve flawed tiles for smaller cut pieces where defects could be trimmed away.

We decided on a combo: a herringbone pattern on the hearth and a traditional brick-lay pattern on the surround. With only a narrow band of tile showing around the firebox, herringbone would have read as busy if used everywhere, so we limited it to the hearth where it reads more intentionally. The majority of angular cuts on the hearth were 45 degrees, so a miter guide or a triangle square is extremely useful when marking and cutting pieces.

All cuts were made with a wet saw. Marble can be a bit brittle, so take care near corners and back up cuts with steady support to avoid chipping. Despite that, we found the marble subway pieces easier to cut than penny tile and had very little waste.

Thinset was mixed and applied in small sections to keep it from skinning over. We set tiles carefully, using spacers where appropriate and checking alignment frequently. While the post doesn’t detail every single trowel technique, basic tile-setting practices—plan your layout, spread thinset with the correct notch size, press tiles firmly, and periodically check for level—apply here.

Tiling the hearth took longer than the surround because of the many angled cuts. We completed the bottom portion in a single day and finished the upper surround the next day during a quiet afternoon. For outer edges that would be covered by the eventual MDF surround, we reused cut halves from adjacent rows to minimize waste and speed installation.

After the tiles set, we grouted with a non-sanded grout in a soft white shade. Grouting transformed the look instantly—the grout fills joints, evens out patterns, and gives the installation a finished appearance. Grout application was straightforward: pack grout into joints, remove excess with a rubber float, then smooth and clean joints with a damp sponge as the grout began to set.

Once the grout cured for the recommended time, we sealed the tile and grout according to the sealer manufacturer’s instructions. Sealing helps protect marble and grout from stains and makes cleaning easier. The entire tiling and grouting process took roughly seven hours of active work across two days, not counting drying times between steps.

Materials and approximate costs for our project:

• Cement board (2 sheets): $16
• Liquid Nails Heavy Duty: $2
• Subway tile: $5.50/sq ft, totaling about $70
• Grout: $11
• Total (supplies not already owned): approximately $99

Overall, the re-tiled hearth and surround in marble subway tile feel like a significant upgrade for a modest investment of time and money. The finished look is classic and elevated, and combining herringbone with a brick pattern gave the fireplace character without overwhelming the small tiled area. Next steps for us include building out the wood surround, adding trim and molding, priming, painting, and finishing touches.

If you’re considering tiling a fireplace, plan the substrate carefully, protect floors, lay out tiles in advance, and take your time with cuts. With basic tools and patience, this is an accessible DIY project that yields a big visual impact.

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