Sherry is officially halfway through Clara’s canopy wall update, and we’re so grateful to the 900+ readers who commented with votes and suggestions. We showed Clara a bunch of mockups and she chose a mix of ideas—she might be our best interior designer yet. We’re excited to share the final photos once Sherry finishes up (she woke up early yesterday to move the project forward and hopes to shoot it by Monday).

Before Sherry fully tackled the canopy wall, I insisted on crossing one item off my list: installing chunky, double-wide crown molding. I knew this room needed the thicker profile to match the rest of the house and to hide an imperfect cut-in line where the white walls meet the pink ceiling from when we painted the room about six weeks ago. I’d planned to add crown molding right after painting—soft emphasis on “planned”—so this was overdue.

We’ve documented basic crown installation before, but this time I wanted a beefier profile to match the larger molding found in our dining room, living room, bedroom, office, and foyer. The builder’s original treatment looks like baseboard attached under the crown, which gives a much more substantial, classic appearance. To replicate that look without wasting material, I bought 3.25″ baseboard and planned to float it slightly below the ceiling so only the portion we wanted would be visible.

To keep the baseboard at a consistent distance from the ceiling, I cut spacers and used a level to ensure a straight line—ceilings aren’t perfectly true, and relying on spacers alone can lead to a wavy result. I also used a stud finder and marked stud locations with a pencil dot so I could sink nails into solid framing for a strong hold. With the baseboard temporarily in place, I held up the crown molding to confirm the proportions. Up close the baseboard looked thick, so we compared it to other rooms in the house and agreed it matched nicely, so I proceeded.

Installing the baseboard around the room went quickly. Corners required standard 45° miter cuts, and where boards weren’t long enough I used 45° scarf joints for clean transitions. That was good practice before tackling the crown cuts, which demand more precise angles. For the crown I used a Kreg Crown Pro jig to help position the board correctly on the miter saw so the compound angles line up. The jig makes accurate angled cuts much less intimidating, and it’s a handy tool for anyone wanting tight-fitting corners.

Cutting and fitting the crown took a while—especially with a meeting in the middle of the day—but by evening I had all of the crown pieces hung. The following day I caulked every seam: corners, scarf joints, where the baseboard meets the wall, where the crown meets the ceiling, and the joint between the baseboard and the crown. Caulking that junction is important because it helps the two pieces read as a single, larger molding profile instead of two separate layers.

After caulking, I touched up everything with paint. Caulk can appear matte and collect dust, so painting over nail holes and seams gives a uniform, slightly glossy finish that looks finished and makes the trim easier to keep clean. I had pre-primed boards and had sprayed them earlier, so installation day was faster. If you don’t have paint or caulk on hand, plan to add that to your materials list—about $25 should cover a quart of trim paint and a tube of caulk for a small room.

Here’s a close look at the finished detail. We’re really pleased with how it turned out. Even in a room with white trim and a pink ceiling, the chunky crown adds a refined architectural element and draws the eye upward. It gives the space more polish and presence without feeling overdone—kind of like the old buildings with prominent trim that make the ceiling a focal point.

As for reactions, Clara likes the “wood things we hung up there,” and Sherry is thrilled since she now has the freedom to push forward with the canopy design. The canopy wall is really starting to come together and is looking exciting.

In terms of cost, the project ran about $76 for crown plus $61 for baseboard, totaling $137. We used pre-primed boards and some leftover Simply White semi-gloss trim paint from other projects. If you need to buy paint and caulk, add roughly $25 to your budget. Because I’d sprayed the trim earlier while set up for another job, the painting step was straightforward—proof that planning ahead pays off, even if the painted trim sat in the garage tempting me for weeks.

The downside? Now I want to install beefed-up crown throughout the rest of the upstairs. Our bedroom already has it, so that leaves two bedrooms, two bathrooms, and a long hallway with odd angles. I’m oddly enthusiastic about the idea—probably a sign of my love for nail guns and miter saws. For anyone considering a similar upgrade, take your time with layout and cutting, use spacers and a level to keep lines straight, caulk thoroughly, and paint for a finished, professional look.