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Removing wall-to-wall carpet — and every layer beneath it — is a major chore. We discovered that firsthand this weekend when we finally tackled the bedrooms and hallway. It was hot, sweaty work, but the result smells a whole lot better than old carpet and felt worth every effort.
When we bought the house, the four upstairs bedrooms and the hallway were covered in once-cream carpeting that had turned tan, stained, and threadbare in places. Some spots even had small holes. Early on, during our first walk-through, we were able to lift a loose corner and peek underneath. There were no hidden hardwood floors—just subfloor—but finding that out before closing helped us plan and budget.
After the initial disappointment of not uncovering original hardwood, we got excited about choosing new flooring. We considered several options including carpet, bamboo, tile, and solid hardwood. Ultimately we went with oak hardwood because we already have oak in other parts of the house and it feels cohesive. Oak is also practical for a household with a child and a dog: it’s easier to wipe down and maintain than wall-to-wall carpet. Area rugs give us the flexibility to add warmth and change the look over time without committing to carpet for the long haul.
Before we could install new hardwood ourselves, we had to remove all that old carpet. Here’s how we did it and what we learned along the way.
We started by prying back a corner with a small crowbar. With a little force, the carpet popped up and we could begin pulling and rolling it toward the center of the room. This is really a two-person job if you can manage it: one person working from each corner makes rolling the heavy, grimy carpet much easier.
Protect yourself: wear gloves and long sleeves. Our forearms got raw from hauling rolls of carpet to the garage before we remembered gloves. We stored the removed carpet in the garage while we decided whether to dispose of it or recycle it. (Many readers later shared great ideas for recycling or cutting it down for curbside pickup—thanks to everyone who contributed suggestions.)
We repeated the same pull-and-roll process in each bedroom and down the hallway. In rooms with excess carpet, we cut rolls in half with a utility knife to make them easier to carry. Under the carpet we found the blue carpet padding, which had been stapled and nailed to the subfloor in many places.
Removing the padding left dozens of staples, nails, and tack strips along the room perimeter. Tack strips are thin wooden strips with angled nails that grab the carpet and pad to hold them in place. Sometimes a pry bar will lift tack strips out in long sections, but old, brittle strips often splinter and break apart. When that happens, instead of popping them out quickly, you have to dig out splinters and pull remaining nails, which is time-consuming and requires patience.
I tackled the tack strips in the master bedroom while John removed them from the hallway and nursery, then we swapped rooms. Together it took us roughly an hour and a half to remove the tack strips from all the rooms we worked on. If one person attempts this alone, expect the task to take significantly longer and to possibly end in blisters.
After the tack strips came the staples. At first we pulled them out with needle-nosed pliers, one at a time, which was painstaking and slow. When John spent over an hour removing staples from a single closet by hand, we realized we needed a better tool. A long-handled heavy-duty floor scraper made a huge difference. We picked one up for about $25 and it sped up the job immensely. It still required strength and left our backs sore, but it made clearing staples from subflooring practical. A note of caution: if you have hardwood underneath, avoid a metal scraper as it can dent the wood; the scraper is best for plywood subfloors.
The next day we finished cleanup. We swept the rooms into piles and used a shop-vac to remove the remaining nails and staples, leaving us with smooth, bare subfloor ready for hardwood installation.
We also filmed a short video documenting each step, which shows the process of removing tack strips and staples more clearly than still photos do.
Seeing those clean subfloors felt like real progress. Our garage filled up with rolled carpet and debris for now, but the upstairs feels refreshed and ready for new oak floors. That stinky carpet was a necessary step toward a much nicer result.
Have you ever ripped out carpet? Did staples and tack strips give you trouble? We were frustrated until we found the heavy-duty floor scraper—true lifesaver. If forced to choose a superhero tool, I’d take a paint roller on one arm and a floor scraper on the other.
More Flooring Projects
If you want to read about other flooring projects we’ve completed, check out these posts:

- Refinishing Hardwood Floors 101
- How To Install Hardwood Flooring Yourself
- How To Select Hardwood Flooring
- How To Install Hardwood Floors Without Nails
- How To Install Click-And-Lock Cork Flooring
- How To Paint A Floor
- How To Stain A Concrete Floor
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